USA East Cost Part 2

Washington, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Massachusetts, Vermont , New Hampshire, Maine

By early afternoon, we are already at our campground in Washington. We take a taxi to the nearest metro station, and from there it takes us just over 30 minutes to reach the city center. We take a long walk along the National Mall, the heart of the city. The Washington Monument, a 169-meter-high obelisk, is hard to miss, and the World War II Memorial is an impressive monument dedicated to the more than 400,000 US soldiers who died in the war. The same goes for the Vietnam War Memorial, where the names of more than 58,000 missing or killed soldiers are listed chronologically. A few hundred meters further on is the Lincoln Memorial with its 175-ton statue of Abraham Lincoln. Then it's on to the White House. Of course, this is a must-see when you're in Washington. When else would you get the chance to see a real Secret Service agent up close? And a stroll down Pennsylvania Avenue is also a must. After a good 10 km walk in 35-degree heat, we are slowly exhausted and stop for a bite to eat in a nice pub before taking the metro back to the campground.

 

At 9 a.m., we set off again for Union Station, the city's central transportation hub. When you leave the station, you are immediately in the middle of the action with a view of the Capitol and the National Mall. On the forecourt, a few tireless protesters are demonstrating against the current government with placards and collecting signatures. From there, we continue to the Capitol, which we first photograph extensively from the outside and then take a guided tour. A film introduces us to American history, followed by a tour of the various halls with many historical paintings and numerous statues of important figures. For the House of Representatives gallery, we had to get a separate free ticket. It's an uplifting feeling to look down from the gallery at the Speaker's podium and the place where the president recently gave his speech to the nation after his first hundred days in office. Everything looks exactly like it does on TV, but unfortunately, photography is prohibited. A connecting passageway leads to the National Library, which houses the Gutenberg Bible and many other priceless books. A few hundred meters further on is the Supreme Court, whose facade is unfortunately currently being renovated, so we only saw it from the outside.

At around 4 a.m., we drove to Arlington Cemetery, which was founded during the Civil War in 1864. The site serves as a burial place for soldiers and civilian relatives. There are more than 400,000 graves and memorials on over 640 hectares. Among them are those of John F. Kennedy and his wife Jacqueline, as well as other members of the family.  As a central memorial for unknown soldiers from various wars, a resting place was established in 1921 after World War I for soldiers who were unknown or whose identities could not be determined. A white marble cube/memorial stone with a flat rotating tower above it lies within a framing ring of trenches and is guarded by guards in dark blue uniforms. The changing of the guard by the Ceremonial Guard takes place at fixed intervals. Unfortunately, the gates close at 5 p.m., so we had to rush through the cemetery. But that's enough for today, and we drive back to the campground.

 

Today is Museum Day. All museums in Washington offer free admission. You just need to get a timed ticket online beforehand. First, we go to the Holocaust Museum. It's really well done, but also very depressing to see this dark chapter of German history presented in such detail. On the way to the USA-Africa Museum, Karin trips over a bump in the sidewalk and falls very hard. Her glasses are broken, she has a black eye, and her cheekbone, shoulder, and elbow are pretty badly bruised. Of course, we immediately sued the city for a million dollars in damages. We then went to the USA-Africa Museum, where Karin was bandaged up. I visited the USA-Africa Museum, which depicts the history of slavery over 500 years, on my own while Karin rested. From there, we went to the Air & Space Museum. Unfortunately, we couldn't get tickets for it. All the appointments for that day were already fully booked, and the next available slot was not until the following morning. We then took a look at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel Washington from above. There, you can take the elevator up to the former tower of the old post office free of charge and enjoy a 360-degree view of Washington, which, however, is partially obstructed by window bars. After that, Karin felt the need for some rest, so we returned to the campsite in the late afternoon. That was it for Washington. A very fascinating city with a lot of American history that is definitely worth a visit, even at 35 degrees Celsius.

We continue north to Pennsylvania. This is Amish country, and every now and then you come across a horse-drawn carriage, for which there are even special traffic signs, or you meet a farmer driving a tractor without rubber tires.  

We stay at French Creek State Park for three days. Karin treats her wounds and we plan our visit to New York City. A friend from Heidelberg lives in New Jersey, and we can park our small car in her driveway. With temperatures reaching 40 degrees, we are also very happy that we can stay in a guest room with air conditioning.

Anneliese takes us on a sightseeing tour. In the middle of quiet Robbinsville, New Jersey, stands a building that looks as if it has been transported here directly from India – the Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple. This temple is not only a religious site, but also a symbol of what devotion, community, and vision can achieve. It belongs to the BAPS (Bochasanwasi Akshar Purushottam Swaminarayan Sanstha) and is part of a worldwide network of temples based on the teachings of Bhagwan Swaminarayan. But what makes it special is that it is the largest Hindu temple outside India – and was largely built by volunteers.

The history of the temple is as fascinating as its architecture. Work began in 2011 under the spiritual guidance of Pramukh Swami Maharaj and later Mahant Swami Maharaj. Thousands of tons of Italian marble were carved by hand in India by artisans using ancient techniques. The individual pieces were then shipped to the US and assembled like a giant jigsaw puzzle. The result is breathtaking: every pillar, every dome, every figure tells a story, full of symbolism and attention to detail. This place is not only significant for Hindus. It is open to everyone, a place of intercultural encounter, tranquility, and beauty. Those who come here can leave the noise of the world behind for a few hours and find new strength in an oasis of stone and silence. Truly a unique place that opened in 2023 and is only two hours away from New York City.

We visited New York for a few days back in 2009. Back then, however, it was March, with temperatures of 5 degrees and an icy wind. We almost froze to death waiting in line for the ferry to Liberty Island and gave up after an hour. So we still have that to do, and we plan a day trip to the city. Anneliese kindly drives us to the ferry terminal. From there, we cross over to Manhattan and continue by bus to Battery Park, the ferry terminal to Liberty and Ellis Islands. Today, with temperatures around 35 degrees, we certainly won't freeze to death, and we cross over to Liberty Island without a long wait. We can see the impressive Statue of Liberty from afar and walk around the island to take photos from every angle. The weather is on our side and even gives us a few minutes of smog-free blue sky.

We continue on to Ellis Island. The red brick building looks like a fortress of memories. In 150 years, over 11 million people arrived here with nothing but hope in their suitcases. 98% moved on. 2% were sent back. The large entrance hall with its vaulted ceiling and old wooden benches is virtually unchanged. One room displays worn shoes, another shows old passports, toys, and tattered Bibles. You can hear original recordings of immigrants recounting how they saw the Statue of Liberty for the first time. It is an impressive place where history is so close.

On the way back, we look anxiously at the skyline. Very dark clouds are already gathering in the sky. The heatwave of the last few days collapses and unleashes a storm that causes flooding and severe weather warnings around New York. We take refuge in the World Trade Center and wait to see what happens. Anneliese is unable to pick us up at the ferry terminal as planned because many roads are closed. During a brief break in the rain, we manage to make it to the bus station. From there, we travel to New Jersey, where Anneliese can pick us up.

After five wonderful days, we say goodbye to our amazing host. Thank you again for everything. Karin masterfully navigates us through the confusing road network with eight-lane highways and heavy traffic. Once again, we have chosen a Harvest Host address at Homestead Winery. The winery is picturesquely nestled in the rolling hills of Canaan and offers a perfect combination of idyllic scenery and good wine. The atmosphere in an old barn is inviting, with a beautiful outdoor area that encourages you to linger. We do a wine tasting and Peter, the owner, is a very entertaining fellow who can tell us a lot about his wine, but also about his travels as a big game hunter in Africa.

We leave New Jersey and cross Massachusetts to Vermont, the smallest state in the US with an area of 24,000 square kilometers and one of the first states to abolish slavery. The Green Mountain National Forest and the Green Mountains dominate the landscape, and there are plenty of opportunities for free camping. However, the locals are also aware of this, as we painfully discover after traveling dozens of kilometers on forest roads. Finally, we find a free spot in front of a sign that says “no trespassing.” We had a bad feeling about it, and sure enough, it turned out as we expected. After an hour of relaxation, a Jeep pulls up and someone explains to us that this is private property. We strike up a conversation and complain that all the spots are full and we couldn't find anything. In the end, we are allowed to drive onto his property and stay there as long as we want. After the hustle and bustle of the big cities, this is a place right up our alley, and we thoroughly enjoy the peace and solitude for a few days.

After days of relaxation in solitude, we are ready to return to the big city of Boston. There are numerous unclear toll roads around the city, as well as low bridges. We do not wish to navigate through this, so we proceed to Salem to a campground directly at the harbor. Salem is known for its witch trials of 1692 and is now a city full of historical sites, museums, and tours related to the witch trials. History is mercilessly marketed here, and witch hats are on sale at every corner.

But we're not here for the witches, we're here because the city is a good base for visiting Boston. At ten in the morning, the ferry takes us directly to the center of Boston at Long Wharf in just under an hour. From there, we continue on to Quincy Market with its food stalls and fresh lobster on offer everywhere. Finding your way around Boston is very easy. Just follow the Freedom Trail, a 5 km long red line that runs through the city and leads you to all the sights. Passing historic buildings such as the Old State House, we head to the Italian quarter where we enjoy a delicious lunch and toast Manfred's birthday with a glass of wine. In the afternoon, we continue to “balance” along our red line through Boston Common and on to Beacon Hill, with its pretty brick houses and narrow streets. In the evening, we take the train back to Salem from North Station. Yesterday, we had already picked out a nice seafood restaurant at the harbor for Manfred's birthday dinner with oysters, sushi, and good wine.

Then we had the idea that a day at the beach would be a good plan, and we set off along the coast in high spirits. There are plenty of beaches there, but getting there with MOMO is a challenge. As is the case in beautiful areas all over the world, everything here is built up to the last meter and privately owned. We managed to get within 200 meters, but the parking lot with overnight stay and parking until the next evening would cost $90. We didn't like our beach idea so much anymore, so we changed our plans and ended up at the Apache Campground in Sanford, Maine, located on the shores of picturesque Estes Lake. For a mere $65/night, we had a nice spot in the woods with a fire pit and lakefront location. However, you had to insert a few coins to take a shower and follow strict rules, see picture. Yes, the New England states have prices that make you long for the western United States. After two relaxing days, we continue on to Winslow Memorial Park Campground near Freeport, Maine. On the way there, lobster rolls are offered everywhere, which tastes delicious.

In Freeport, we go shopping for clothes for the grandchildren at the outlet center and then drive to Bailey Island to a Harvest Host that has a beautiful parking space with a view of the sea. Bailey Island is located in Casco Bay and is less than a mile wide, with a predominantly rocky coastline, several bays, and about 400 people living there. Since 1928, the Cribstone Bridge (also known as Cobwork Bridge) has connected Bailey Island with Orr's Island. It is unique: built of granite stones in an open grid structure that allows the strong tides to flow through, it is considered the only example of this type of construction in the world. For the evening, we booked a sunset cruise on a 70-foot two-masted schooner and sailed out into the bay for a good two hours to watch the sunset.

From there, we continue a little further towards the mountains. We had spotted a few free parking spaces there, but the locals seemed to know about them too. We only realized this after we had fought our way a few kilometers along forest roads and through dense woodland. In the end, we ended up back at a campground, at least in a pine forest and with a nice beach by the lake. We would have liked to stay there a little longer, but it's the weekend again and our spot is reserved. So we move to Peaks Kenny State Park on Sebec Lake. There, Karin suddenly develops a high fever and is knocked out for a few days. The place isn't great for staying longer, so we drive on to a very nice free parking spot by a river where Karin can recover from her flu.

From there, we will continue across the border to Canada. As always, you can read about our experiences there in the next blog.

Our route for this part of the journey - 2000 km

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