Karin’s knee problem has mostly healed, and on May 1 we set off on our big Scandinavian tour. We say goodbye to our grandchildren, who shed a few tears because they won’t be seeing Grandpa and Grandma for a while. We drive along nearly empty highways to Bamberg, a World Heritage Site in Upper Franconia. The city’s landmark is Bamberg Cathedral, with its four imposing towers in Romanesque-Gothic architecture and the famous Bamberg Rider. An architectural highlight is the Old Town Hall, built on an island in the Regnitz River. In bright sunshine, we enjoy lunch in the beer garden on Town Hall Square and watch the colorful hustle and bustle. Afterward, we drive another 100 km or so to Mittgenfeld, where we find a nice spot at the sports field.
We’re back on the road at nine o’clock. During a short break at a rest stop, we notice a few drops of oil pooled under the engine. We’re a little worried, so we swing by the Mercedes dealership in Kassel since the shop is right off the highway. The mechanic is super nice and suspects the head gasket (a disaster) or an oil seal. It’s questionable whether we’ll be able to drive the planned 10,000 km through Scandinavia with this. He recommends a specialist workshop for old diesel engines in Reinhardshagen, near Hannoversch Münden, for a more detailed analysis. In our minds, we’re already canceling our ferry, and feeling pretty down, we continue on to Liebenburg to visit our travel friends Manni & Rosita, whom we met 13 years ago in South America and have since run into in many places around the world. We spend a lovely evening barbecuing and have plenty to catch up on. Manni knows a lot about trucks and takes a look at the oil issue in the morning, but he can’t figure it out either. We decide to drive 100 km back and visit the engine specialist in Reinhardshagen. We spend Sunday afternoon sightseeing in Hann. Münden.
Right on time at 7:30 a.m. on Monday morning, we’re standing at his door. He’s super nice, too, and gets right to work. The cab is tilted back, and first the engine is thoroughly washed and drained of the old oil. After that, we take a 20-kilometer test drive, and then the engine is inspected in detail. The cause is an old cork gasket on the side engine cover that, after 38 years, has hardened and is leaking a little oil. So it’s nothing serious, and we can continue our journey without any worries. When we’re back home in the fall, we’ll have it repaired.
We’re relieved, because we’d already started looking up the terms of our cancellation insurance policy. An hour later, however, our relief is once again severely dampened. A medical assistant calls Karin and wants to see her next week for a follow-up exam due to an unclear test result. We spend a restless night at a campsite near Lüneburg, and in the morning, Karin calls the doctor. The doctor now has an older comparison image and gives the all-clear. It’s enough to have it checked in October. So, for the second time, we’re very relieved. We hope this was the last bit of bad news and set off for Travemünde. There’s still plenty of time before boarding at midnight, so we pass the time with a long walk along the pier from Travemünde to Timmendorfer Strand. It’s pleasantly warm, and we treat ourselves to an Aperol Spritz and later enjoy a delicious fish platter. At 10:30 p.m., we head to the boarding pier. Around 1 a.m., we’re able to board the ship and settle into our cabin. We didn’t even notice when we set sail at 2 a.m.
We booked meals for our 32 hours on board, and the Scandinavian buffet in the evening is particularly excellent—we give it 5 stars. From shrimp, salmon, and various herring dishes to reindeer strips and a dessert selection that leaves nothing to be desired. Plus, as much wine and draft beer as you like—the two days literally fly by in a gourmet paradise. A truly fitting setting for our 39th wedding anniversary.
On May 7, we dock in Helsinki right on time at 10 a.m. and check in at the campground an hour later. It’s right next to the metro station, and a short ride later, the metro takes us into the city in 15 minutes. Our first stop is the National Library. The architecture, made of wood and glass, is spectacular. Next, we head to Helsinki’s simple white cathedral, the gleaming white landmark on Senate Square. Not far from there is the old market hall, located right on the harbor. Of course, we have to try a typical Finnish salmon soup there right away. Very tasty, and it certainly wasn’t the last. Uspenski Cathedral is just a short walk from the market square. The brick-red Orthodox church sits atop a hill and is the largest in Western Europe. With its golden onion domes, it forms a striking architectural contrast to the classicist white cathedral on Senate Square. That’s enough for today, and back at the car we enjoy the strong sunshine for a good two hours before it gets too cold outside. It doesn’t get dark, however, until after 10:30 p.m.
On the second day, we’ll visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress. The fortress spans several interconnected islands and is just a 15-minute ferry ride from the market square. Originally built by Sweden to defend against Russia, it later came under Russian rule and is now part of Finland. You can wander around there for hours, exploring the tunnels, cannons, and the shipyard. It would also be the perfect spot for a picnic on the granite rocks with a view of the massive ferries passing by. However, we decide on an “all-you-can-eat” sushi buffet near the harbor for just under €15, including water, coffee, and dessert. Afterward, we only have enough energy for a short stroll down the main shopping street (Esplanadi) before heading back to the campground with tired feet to enjoy the sun a little longer.
On the third day, we visit the highlights just outside the city center. In the heart of the bustling Kamppi district, there is a place that couldn’t be quieter: the Chapel of Silence. It’s located right on Narinkkatori Square, surrounded by shopping centers, street noise, and the hustle and bustle of everyday life. We only view it from the outside, as a Thai New Year’s celebration is currently taking place in the square. Next, we head to the Rock Church. An architectural marvel carved directly into the massive granite rock. If you’re looking for a moment of peace in between, head to the Regatta Café near the Sibelius Monument. It’s a tiny red wooden hut by the water where you can eat cinnamon buns (korvapuusti) outdoors and grill sausages over an open fire—a true taste of Finnish life on the outskirts of the city, where we enjoy blueberry cake with vanilla sauce and a coffee in a sunny spot.
Right next door is the Sibelius Monument. Located in the Töölö district, this monument is dedicated to the famous Finnish composer Jean Sibelius. It consists of over 600 steel pipes that rise toward the sky like a monumental organ. When the wind blows through the pipes, the monument produces a unique acoustic effect.
And that brings our three-day visit to Helsinki to a close. It was a great time. Now we’re leaving Helsinki and heading north through eastern Finland, along the Russian border. As always, you’ll find out what we experience there in the next blog post.
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